Chronic Kidney Disease in cats and what NOT to do

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Bear was the sweetest cat ever. No, really. I know most will say that about their cats, but she really was. When she died of CKD (Chronic Kidney Disease) our hearts broke.

The fear of our other cats getting CKD has since haunted us.

This encouraged My Kitty Care to continuosly learn about Chronic Kidney Disease in cats and what NOT to do. The recent suggestions to help prevent CKD by cat-only veterinarian and nutrition expert Dr. Lisa Pierson, caught our attention. It fundamentally focused on two things:

• Diet
• Over vaccinating FVRCP (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia)

Generally speaking, a good diet is desirable for maintaining a healthy cat. No different than us. But what is a healthy diet for a cat, particularly for helping prevent CKD?
The main thing is to Limit dry food.

The reason is this, dry food is…dry. Wild cats get their moisture from their prey, and our cats naturally get theirs from food, too. Which means wet food. More and more cat food companies make products in cans or pouches that either include gravy in the flavor, or as a stand alone gravy product. We just add fresh, filtered water and mix it with the wet food.

Another reason dry food is not the ideal primary food for your cat, is how protein is processed. Most manufactures render the protein. What does render mean?

As of April, 2021, the FDA defined rendering as:

“Any Firm Or Individual That Processes Slaughter Byproducts; Animals Unfit For Human Consumption, Including Carcasses Of Dead Cattle; Or Meat Scraps.”

Gross. So dry food taxes your cats kidneys by being hard-to-digest, rendered, poor quality protein, and lacking moisture. Even if your cat is sadly diagnosed with CKD, some vets will recommend products designed for cats with CKD, including dry food products. Be wary of these products: they are dry food.

Next on the list is over vaccinating your cat with FVRCP. This is particularly relevant if your cat is an indoor cat. Based on our research, all three of the diseases the FVRCP vaccination addresses are highly contagious, and passed by contact with infected cats, or fecal matter, food bowls, etc. These diseases are serious, and most cats should be vaccinated. Kittens are particularly susceptible to serious illness from these same three diseases, which is why a series of vaccinations are typically administrated by your vet for kittens.

But how often?
Dr, Lisa Pierson says, “It is very important to understand that the current guidelines state that the FVRCP combination vaccine should not be given more frequently than every 3 years.  That is not the same as stating “these vaccines should be administered every 3 years.”

Once a kitten has received two doses of FVRCP (rather than the typically recommended four) plus once as an adult, the question becomes, is repeated vaccinations of FVRPC a risk or beneficial? Dr. Pierson’s view that even three years may be too often for an adult cat is because the vaccination has been proven to cause kidney inflammation. The prevalence of CKD in cats, unlike wild cats, makes kidney inflammation a damaging consequence of over vaccinating. Dr. Pierson observes CKD as the most common threat to cats, especially older ones. Unless you board your cat, take your cat to cat shows, or to any place where your cat has contact with cats of unknown health, that may influence the frequency of your cat receiving the FVRCP vaccination, meaning every 3 years, as appropriate. Some vets, however, suggest annually. Regardless, it’s your call.

Why is over vaccinating the FVRCP a potential risk for CKD in our cats?Again referring to Dr. Lisa Pierson:
“The viruses used to make vaccines need to be grown in what is called a “cell culture.”  The cells used to make the FVRCP vaccine are feline (cat) kidney cells. When these kidney cells are injected into the cat (along with the vaccine), his immune systems views them as foreign and makes antibodies against them.  Unfortunately, those antibodies do not know the difference between the injected kidney cells and his own kidney tissue resulting in a potential autoimmune ‘attack’ on his kidneys. (‘Auto’ means ‘self.”)

Most people become veterinarians because they love animals and want to help them. But it is important, as a pet parent, to be informed about your cat’s health, and how to keep them healthy. That includes your cat’s diet, annual physicals, sufficient exercise, and vaccinations.

Thank you Dr. Pierson for great information.


my kitty care does not endorse any product discussed on The Scratching Post, nor does my kitty care receive payments, or any form of compensation from any company or product on my kitty care.

What to do when my cat scratches furniture

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If your cat scratches furniture, curtains or anything you DON’T want your otherwise sweet fantastic kitty cat to ruin, it’s helpful to understand why they do it. They’re not deliberately trying to piss us off, they have a reason. Read why my cat scratches furniture to help you understand your cat’s behavior.

solutions for cats scratching furniture

Get scratchings posts and pads. Lots of them. The goal is to offer your cat as many options as possible. Get different styles, textures, and sizes.

Pet store scratching pads & posts

In nature, cats use trees to stretch and scratch, which is why it’s one of several materials used on scratching posts. Similar surfaces that have scratching appeal are sisal, hemp and carpeting.

Your cat might prefer one material over another, and letting them sample scratching posts with different textures is how to find out what your cat likes. Maybe all of them.

photo by shari smith dunaif © 2022
  • Take advantage of offering different scratching textures to your cat.
  • Place post or pad close to where your cat scratches as an alternative.
  • Your cat needs to know the scratching pads and posts are theirs.
Marnie likes her scratch pad. photo by shari smith dunaif © 2022

If your cat is reluctant to use your newly purchased post/pad, sprinkle catnip on it. Watch what happens. Catnip often works to entice your cat to using the pad/post. (Although not all cats respond to catnip.)

Another technique is this: if you see your cat scratching your sofa, for example, gently pick them up and carry them to a scratching pad/post. Never yell at your cat, you’ll only upset and confuse them. They are, after all, doing what’s natural to them. This shouldn’t need to be said —NEVER hit your cat, unless you want them terrified and possibly never trust you again. Instead, after you bring your cat to their scratching pad/post, place them or their paws on it and with a soothing tone, pet them and tell them yes my most loved kitty, here it is okay to scratch. Maybe this sounds silly, and although cats can’t be trained in the manner dogs can, my kitty care believes cats can be guided. Suddenly, your cat is happily scratching away on their pad/post. Take this opportunity to reinforce and reward your cat with their favorite treat. Cats understand that good behavior gets them good stuff.

Scratching post & hemp door hanger awaits Marnie

Remember, your cat isn’t deliberately disobeying you or trying to be bad, they’re just drawn to places which appeal to them because of their instinctive need to scratch, groom and stretch. It’s our job to provide them with alternatives that work for them and protect our furniture. You don’t have to get rid of your cat to eliminate the scratching problem, you just need to understand why your cat scratches, and make the effort to provide solutions that work for you and your cat.


my kitty care does not endorse any product discussed on The Scratching Post, nor does my kitty care receive payments, or any form of compensation from any company or product on my kitty care.

My cat eats flowers

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Some cats, but not all, love to eat houseplants. But Valentina is different. She lives with Rodney and his partner Raymond. When Valentina is in their garden, Rodney smiles and says, “My cat eats flowers.”

This is new to My Kitty Care. Why flowers? According to Dr. Karyn Bischoff, a board-certified veterinary toxicologist at the New York State Animal Health Diagnostic Center in Ithaca, cats sense of smell is so much superior to humans; they have 14 – 20 times the smell receptors than we have. And since flowers smell wonderful to us, we can imagine how inviting they must be to cats.

Valentina enjoys Rodney & Raymond’s garden

These lovely flowers are considered safe for cats to eat

  • Lilacs
  • Roses (it’s the thorns that make roses problematic)
  • Sunflowers
  • Petunias
  • Camellias
  • Snapdragons
  • Daisies

For cats who eat houseplants, it’s important to know which ones you MUST NOT have in your home because they are toxic to cats. What about flowers? Some flowers are so toxic, the cat only needs to chew and not even swallow the flower or leaves of the flower.

Although these flowers are pretty — keep cats away from them!

  • True lilies and daylilies 
  • Daffodils
  • Crocus
  • Hyacinths
  • Kalanchoe
  • Azalea
  • Hydrangeas
  • Tulips (are in the lily family)
  • Oleander 
  • Lily of the valley 
  • Chrysanthemums

The levels of toxicity of the above flowers range from a rash to death Lilies are particularly toxic — your cat only needs to eat a couple of leaves or just lick the pollen grains to ingest the poison.

Want to know how serious the consequences are?

If your cat eats the leaf or pollen grains of a lily: your cat will vomit for 2 to 4 hours. Within 12 – 24 hours your cat will urine frequently. If your cat stops urinating, he/she may have kidney failure. If you do nothing, your cat will die 4 – 7 days from nibbling on a lily.

About flower arrangements

Giving or getting a lovely flower arrangement is always welcomed. But what about we lucky households with cats — my cat (getting an arrangement) or your cat (receiving an arrangement)? The website 1st in flowers focuses on those flowers used in typical floral arrangements which are toxic to cats. The site categorizes flowers based on the symptomatic reaction cats have to them.

If you have any reason to suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please contact your veterinarian or the Animal Poison Control Center’s 24 hour hotline at (888) 426-4435.

Updated vaccination recommendations for your cat

I’ve wondered about the vaccinations vets want to give our cats. Some vets advocate several vaccinations, others suggest less. So the question is, what are these vaccines, and do our cats really need them?

Vaccination recommendations not updated annually

The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) and American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) update their recommended feline vaccinations every seven years — seven years! The most current update occurred in 2020. Prior updates were in 2013 and 2006. These updates are intended as guidelines for veterinarians, but I want to know what they are. Don’t you?

What you need to consider

  • whether your cat is an indoor or an outdoor cat: it can determine what diseases your cat is likely to be exposed to
  • what vaccinations are core — meaning recommended for all cats
  • is it for a potentially fatal disease
  • what vaccinations are non-core — meaning optional
  • does the vaccine have serious side effects?
  • giving your cat a title test: a blood test that determines the presence of antibodies that develop in response to the vaccine. 

note: The titular test will determine if your cat has a functional immune response from a vaccine or possible immunity from contact with other cats, otherwise, your cat has gotten the toxicity of the vaccine but none of the benefit. This may help you decide whether and what vaccines to give your cat.

core vaccinations for cats 1 year and older

  • FPL (Feline panleukopenia)* also known as feline infectious enteritis or feline distemper, caused by FPL virus or feline parvovirus (FPLV).
  • FVR (Feline viral rhinotracheitis), also known as herpes virus type 1 (FHV-1) caused by FVR virus.
  • FCV (Feline Caliciviral) caused by various strains of feline caliciviruses.
  • Rabies**

notes: *Changed from parvovirus to panleukopenia in 2013 (in cats, parvo causes panleukopenia).
**Vaccination against rabies is essential in regions where it is required by statute/law or where the virus is endemic.

non-core vaccinations for cats 1 year and older

  • FeLV (for cats older than 1 year)
  • Chlamydia felis, an upper respiratory disease caused by bacteria, found in shelters, pet shops or colonies.
  • Bordetella bronchiseptica, another upper respiratory disease caused by bacteria and also found in cats in shelters, pet shops or colonies.

FP (Feline panleukopenia), also known as feline distemper, is a highly contagious viral disease among cats. After 1 year of age, the need for subsequent vaccination is determined by your cat’s risk factors. The virus doesn’t infect people.

Here’s something else to pay attention to: sarcomas. What is that? A cancerous tumor. A vaccine sarcoma can occur weeks or even years later. Feline rabies vaccine and the feline leukemia virus (FeLV) vaccine are the main culprits. Prior to the 1990s, cats were typically vaccinated between the shoulders. By 2013, researchers realized that by administrating vaccines in the tail was less disfiguring if a sarcoma developes.

photo by Shari smith dunaif ©2019

in conclusion, make an educated decision about vaccinating your cat. To state the obvious, if you choose not to give your cat a particular vaccination, or any vaccinations, and your cat is exposed to the disease he/she isn’t vaccinated for, your cat could get sick or even die. Meanwhile, cats who are exclusively indoor cats are mostly protected via their lifestyle, and receiving a vaccination can create it’s own risk. It is critical to weigh benefits vs. risks.

my kitty care does not endorse any product discussed on The Scratching Post, nor does my kitty care receive payments, or any form of compensation from any company or product on my kitty care.

Taking your cat outside for the first time

Our cat Marnie Loves hanging out in our lanai, but…

Marnie thinks, ‘Lovely day out.’ photo © 2021 shari smith dunaif

Marnie was adopted from a Florida kill shelter. She was there because she previously lived in a hoarder’s house, although we don’t know anything else about her. Marnie is very comfortable as an indoor cat, but she loves being in our screened-in lanai.

Both our cats are indoor cats, for many reasons: it’s safer. But Marnie would prefer to be in the lanai all the time, except at bedtime because she prefers to sleep with us.

We finally decided to give Marnie a chance to explore beyond the lanai. But it would be irresponsible to simply open the door and let her go. Maybe she’d run after a squirrel and get lost. Bad things can happen to outdoor cats.

So we put her harness on, attached to a leash. This was a great first step for her, and for us. She walked slowly and carefully, but she knew she was safe. She was fine and didn’t want to run off or hide.

Marnie settled under this bush, and relaxed. She laid there for a while, quite content.

The next time Marnie goes outside, she will wear her harness, and we will keep a leash on her. Her little adventures will always be supervised; we want to keep Marnie safe and secure. Some people may eventually let their cat loose, or maybe they have a completely enclosed and secure yard. But if your taking your cat outside for the first time, doing it gradually and safely is always recommended — that’s why we suggest your cat wears a harness and has a leash. And as far as Marnie is concerned, she is okay with being near us.